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Banner image with gratefull thank for use of the photo by Adam Monaghan for Jacobite Enterprises
Banner image with gratefull thank for use of the photo by Adam Monaghan for Jacobite Enterprises
Making a Standard Arrow
The Arrow
The most basic ‘medieval’ arrow you can make and the one you will invariably begin with is the BLBS ‘standard war arrow’. The Standard arrow is an approximate war arrow specification defined a number of years ago by members of the BLBS, when knowledge gained from the Mary Rose was not widely known. This arrow is used in a standard war arrow competition, a sort of heavy arrow flight contest which still runs to this day under the wing of Mr. Hugh Soar, but also serves well as a general purpose everyday arrow. The dimensions of a Standard arrow are simple and it is for this reason that they are a good starting point in heavy arrow manufacture. It has a minimum length of shaft from the base of the nock to shoulder of the arrow head of at least 31½”, the shaft must be 3/8” thick at it’s thinnest part, it must have a horn reinforced self nock, the head must be of medieval ‘style’ and the fletches must be of feather and at least 6” long and ¾” high at there highest point. The manufacture of such arrows is remarkably simple and requires only a little practice without much in the way of equipment.
The Shaft
This is simple, many archery suppliers stock high quality 3/8” shafts, go for poplar, aspen or ash, although I have made some superb birch arrows. Make sure that your shafts are reasonably straight, any bad bends can straightened by holding the arrow in the steam above a pan of boiling water and gently flexing the shaft. Use fine sand paper to smooth out any rough areas of the shaft, but do not cut it to length yet.
This is simple, many archery suppliers stock high quality 3/8” shafts, go for poplar, aspen or ash, although I have made some superb birch arrows. Make sure that your shafts are reasonably straight, any bad bends can straightened by holding the arrow in the steam above a pan of boiling water and gently flexing the shaft. Use fine sand paper to smooth out any rough areas of the shaft, but do not cut it to length yet.
The Nock
The nock is the most awkward part at first, but after a few attempts it becomes straight forward. First you need to identify which way the grain of the arrow lies, click to see diagram. When you have it take a tenon saw and cut down the length of the shaft through the diameter of the shaft with the grain, cut down to a depth of about two inches.
The nock is the most awkward part at first, but after a few attempts it becomes straight forward. First you need to identify which way the grain of the arrow lies, click to see diagram. When you have it take a tenon saw and cut down the length of the shaft through the diameter of the shaft with the grain, cut down to a depth of about two inches.
Next take a horn sliver (again these can be sourced from most good longbow archery supply shops) and using a hack saw cut a piece slightly longer and wider than the cut you have just made. Take the sliver and try it for size within the cut, do not force it if it is to thick as this will split the arrow shaft, either widen the cut using a needle point file or, alternatively use a grinder or belt sander to work down the horn. When your happy the sliver fits snuggly, glue it into place with super glue and clamp it in vice for a while. Once dry file or grind off the excess horn.
Place the shaft in the vice and using a tile saw cut the nock to a depth just deeper than your arrow string, do not cut too deeply as this can result in either a weak or a skewed nock. It is important to cut at a right angles to the horn insert, so the nock and sliver form a cross ‘+’. Try the nock on the string, the nock should fit without being forced but at the same time not be to loose. If necessary widen the nock using a file. When your satisfied that the nock is wide enough take a round needle point file and file away some of the wood at the base of the nock so the horn stands proud, see photo, sand paper the knock to get a smooth finish. The top of the nock can be rounded using a file or left as is. Now treat the shaft using danish oil, I usually dip the end of the shaft in a can of danish oil and then wipe the oil down shaft with a rag. Once the shaft is coated evenly allow to dry.
Measuring and cutting the Fletches
The fletches are made only from the primary wing feathers of either goose, peacock, swan or, mostly easily obtained, turkey. The feathers need to be cut the required shape, there are several different profiles you can use but the simplest is a triangular wedge shape. The BLBS Standard Arrow requires that the base of the fletches should be at least 6” long, I make mine longer at 7½” this seems to aid the arrow by straightening up the shaft faster after it has been loosed. First take a strip of 1”+ wide masking tape and stick the feather along it. Turn it over and mark out the desired pattern in this case a 71/2” base raising from the point to ¾” at the tail, once marked out cut the fletch out using scissors or a Stanley knife..
The fletches are made only from the primary wing feathers of either goose, peacock, swan or, mostly easily obtained, turkey. The feathers need to be cut the required shape, there are several different profiles you can use but the simplest is a triangular wedge shape. The BLBS Standard Arrow requires that the base of the fletches should be at least 6” long, I make mine longer at 7½” this seems to aid the arrow by straightening up the shaft faster after it has been loosed. First take a strip of 1”+ wide masking tape and stick the feather along it. Turn it over and mark out the desired pattern in this case a 71/2” base raising from the point to ¾” at the tail, once marked out cut the fletch out using scissors or a Stanley knife..
Make sure you cut three for each shaft. When the shaft is dry cut it to length, this will be from the base of the nock 32”+‘the amount needed to fit into socket of arrow head’, although the specifications say a minimum of 31 ½”, most heavy bowmen have at least 32” long shafts and for distance shooting I use 33” shafts. The extra ½” also allows you to reuse the shaft if you break off an arrow head. It’s a good idea to taper the end so it fits your head (see below) at this point but don’t yet glue into place. Now your ready to attach the feathers for this you will need a fletching jig, the best I have found is the ‘big jig’ from Richard Head. The fletches need to be arranged around the shaft at an equal angular distance from each other and at least 2” from the base of the nock. The most important fletch to place is the ‘cock’ feather, this feather sits in line with the horn sliver at a right angle to the string when the arrow is on the bow. Using your jig align your arrow into position for the cock feather see photo. Now place thefeather in the clamp and run
super glue along the base of the fletch, quickly put the fletch into place applying a good firm pressure for a few moments, allow to dry. Attach the other two fetches in thesame way turning the shaft on the jig for each one. You’ll notice that at the front of the
fletches the quill is sharp, smooth this of with a Stanley knife then bind some cotton of the end ofthe quill, this will prevent your index finger of yourbow hand being cut when you loose the arrow.
super glue along the base of the fletch, quickly put the fletch into place applying a good firm pressure for a few moments, allow to dry. Attach the other two fetches in thesame way turning the shaft on the jig for each one. You’ll notice that at the front of the
fletches the quill is sharp, smooth this of with a Stanley knife then bind some cotton of the end ofthe quill, this will prevent your index finger of yourbow hand being cut when you loose the arrow.
The Arrow Head.
The arrow head can be a machined bodkin or preferably a hand forged head. There are many types to choose from the simplest being a short needle point bodkin, the ones are I am using here are machined but I also use hand forged.
The arrow head can be a machined bodkin or preferably a hand forged head. There are many types to choose from the simplest being a short needle point bodkin, the ones are I am using here are machined but I also use hand forged.
To fit the head mark around the base of the shaft the depth of the socket of the arrow head, it is at this point you will create a shoulder for the head. With a Stanley knife cut the wood down to fit the socket of the head, the tighter the better, now at the line that you drew create a right angled lip or shoulder so the head butts up against the arrow shaft. To attach the head use a two part epoxy glue like araldite and allow to set for twenty four hours before use.
Congratulations you’ve made you first basic heavy arrow!
Congratulations you’ve made you first basic heavy arrow!
