Making a medieval war arrow
Glennan Carnie
Making a medieval war arrow
In this article I’m going to go through the steps in making a replica medieval war arrow. There are a lot of fletchers out there making arrows - from medieval-esque arrows costing £3 - £4 each to keep the beginner (and those just not that concerned with accuracy) happy, to museum quality replicas costing upwards of £20 per arrow! Personally, I can’t afford £20+ per arrow for general shooting; and there’s a tremendous delight in showing off and shooting an arrow you’ve made yourself (not to mention you don’t get quite so upset when you destroy an arrow at a field shoot!)
I’m aiming at the more authentic end with these arrows. Certainly, an arrow made as shown in this article can be displayed as ‘authentic’ - it has all the characteristics and proportions of a medieval war arrow. However, unless you’re shooting a heavy bow (upwards of 100lb) you probably won’t want to shoot arrows like this. The sight of your beautiful arrow travelling about sixty yards while the guy next to you launches a knitting needle 200 yards can be a little soul-destroying. (It’s at that point you launch into a lecture about the relative kinetic energies of your arrows and how yours would fell a horse while his would barely stun a rabbit!) That said, most of the techniques I’ll show can be adapted for smaller, lighter arrows.
Hopefully, I’ll cover a lot of the ‘gotchas’ that come with arrow making, too. The aim is to write down my experience (such as it is) so you can avoid having to learn the mistakes the hard way! What I can’t show you (and shouldn’t have to) is how to use your tools - how to cut straight, how to mix two-part glues, that sort of thing. If you’re not sure, practice (I’ve heard it makes perfect)
In this article I’m going to go through the steps in making a replica medieval war arrow. There are a lot of fletchers out there making arrows - from medieval-esque arrows costing £3 - £4 each to keep the beginner (and those just not that concerned with accuracy) happy, to museum quality replicas costing upwards of £20 per arrow! Personally, I can’t afford £20+ per arrow for general shooting; and there’s a tremendous delight in showing off and shooting an arrow you’ve made yourself (not to mention you don’t get quite so upset when you destroy an arrow at a field shoot!)
I’m aiming at the more authentic end with these arrows. Certainly, an arrow made as shown in this article can be displayed as ‘authentic’ - it has all the characteristics and proportions of a medieval war arrow. However, unless you’re shooting a heavy bow (upwards of 100lb) you probably won’t want to shoot arrows like this. The sight of your beautiful arrow travelling about sixty yards while the guy next to you launches a knitting needle 200 yards can be a little soul-destroying. (It’s at that point you launch into a lecture about the relative kinetic energies of your arrows and how yours would fell a horse while his would barely stun a rabbit!) That said, most of the techniques I’ll show can be adapted for smaller, lighter arrows.
Hopefully, I’ll cover a lot of the ‘gotchas’ that come with arrow making, too. The aim is to write down my experience (such as it is) so you can avoid having to learn the mistakes the hard way! What I can’t show you (and shouldn’t have to) is how to use your tools - how to cut straight, how to mix two-part glues, that sort of thing. If you’re not sure, practice (I’ve heard it makes perfect)
The arrow
The arrow I’ll be making is based on the arrows found on the Mary Rose. As there are so few extant arrows (after all, they weren’t made for treasuring, but to deliver warheads!) I’m assuming - along with many other authors - that by the Tudor period the war bow and its arrows were a well known and stable weapon system. Because there was no need to develop the weapon further (it is generally considered to be in decline at this point) the arrows found on Mary Rose were essentially identical to the arrows used in the late medieval period.
The arrow I’ll be making is based on the arrows found on the Mary Rose. As there are so few extant arrows (after all, they weren’t made for treasuring, but to deliver warheads!) I’m assuming - along with many other authors - that by the Tudor period the war bow and its arrows were a well known and stable weapon system. Because there was no need to develop the weapon further (it is generally considered to be in decline at this point) the arrows found on Mary Rose were essentially identical to the arrows used in the late medieval period.
One can speculate that, before the development of plate armour (which in itself was driven by the uptake of artillery archery) arrows may have been thinner and lighter and delivering a different type of warhead (the long bodkin) to the later arrows. In this article I’m going to be making an arrow which may have been typical around the early fifteenth century.
One of the distinguishing features of the English war arrow is its length. The bows used by the English were very powerful, to be sure, but certainly not so much more than their continental counterparts. Certainly, there’s nothing to suggest the French (or others) didn’t draw heavy bows. What seems to distinguish the English archer is not the weight of the bow but the length of the arrow. A long arrow, drawn fully back, will elicit more power from the bow and hence will have more energy (and go further). This allowed the English to engage the enemy while they were still out of bow range - a useful tactical advantage.
How long were the arrows? Well, I’m deliberately going to avoid any discussions on the (in)famous ‘clothyard’ arrow (in my view, purely a literary invention). Finds on the Mary Rose display a range of lengths, but two distinct peaks, at 28.5” and 31.5”. I’m going to use the longer length arrow. For information, the length of an arrow is measured from the shoulder (where the head sits) to the base of the nock.
The specification
See Figure 2. Poplar shaft, 31.5” shoulder to nock; barrelled; 1/2” at its widest, 3/8” at the shoulder and nock; fitted with a replica type16 broadhead; fletched with 7.5” turkey feathers cut in a straight, triangular pattern; ¾” high; whipped with red linen. Arrow weight: 55g - 100g, depending on the type of bodkin fitted.
One of the distinguishing features of the English war arrow is its length. The bows used by the English were very powerful, to be sure, but certainly not so much more than their continental counterparts. Certainly, there’s nothing to suggest the French (or others) didn’t draw heavy bows. What seems to distinguish the English archer is not the weight of the bow but the length of the arrow. A long arrow, drawn fully back, will elicit more power from the bow and hence will have more energy (and go further). This allowed the English to engage the enemy while they were still out of bow range - a useful tactical advantage.
How long were the arrows? Well, I’m deliberately going to avoid any discussions on the (in)famous ‘clothyard’ arrow (in my view, purely a literary invention). Finds on the Mary Rose display a range of lengths, but two distinct peaks, at 28.5” and 31.5”. I’m going to use the longer length arrow. For information, the length of an arrow is measured from the shoulder (where the head sits) to the base of the nock.
The specification
See Figure 2. Poplar shaft, 31.5” shoulder to nock; barrelled; 1/2” at its widest, 3/8” at the shoulder and nock; fitted with a replica type16 broadhead; fletched with 7.5” turkey feathers cut in a straight, triangular pattern; ¾” high; whipped with red linen. Arrow weight: 55g - 100g, depending on the type of bodkin fitted.
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Figure 2 - Overall dimensions
The above specification is fairly typical of a war arrow. There are variations I could apply: Tapering (‘bob-tailing’) the shaft over its entire length; hogs-back fletchings. Ideally, I would use goose or swan feather for the fletchings (especially since there were no turkeys in Europe in the Middle Ages!). However, turkey feathers are easier to come by, and cheaper. I use all-white feathers; many choose a grey cock feather and white feathers for the other two. It is also recorded that silk was used to whip arrows on. Personally, I find modern sewing silk rather too fine: it takes an age to do a neat whipping!
The choice of Type16 head is purely personal. Any medieval broadhead or bodkin will do; the choice is yours. There is some argument that the Type16 was the ‘standard’ warhead; this is an argument I don’t want to enter into in this article.
Materials
Arrow components
Each arrow consists of:
·One shaft, ½” diameter
·One medieval arrowhead, bodkin or similar with at least a 3/8” socket
·Three full length pinion feathers, turkey, goose or swan
·Horn sliver, 1/16” thick
Tools
You will need:
·Small (modeller’s) vice
·Steel ruler, marked in inches
·Pencil
·General-purpose saw
·Hacksaw blades (3)
·Modeller’s fine-toothed blade saw
·Sharp craft knife (Exacto, or similar)
·Medium file
·Sandpaper - various grades: 80-, 120-, 320-, 600-grit
·A piece of leather to protect the shaft when gripped in the vice
·Steel wool for finishing
·Varnish or boiled linseed oil for finishing
·Two-part epoxy adhesive
·Fletching glue, of your choice.
·0.010” plasticard sheet
·Good quality, large dressmaking scissors
·Fletching jig
·Fine (2-ply) linen or silk thread for whipping
·PVA glue
·Small paintbrush
The choice of Type16 head is purely personal. Any medieval broadhead or bodkin will do; the choice is yours. There is some argument that the Type16 was the ‘standard’ warhead; this is an argument I don’t want to enter into in this article.
Materials
Arrow components
Each arrow consists of:
·One shaft, ½” diameter
·One medieval arrowhead, bodkin or similar with at least a 3/8” socket
·Three full length pinion feathers, turkey, goose or swan
·Horn sliver, 1/16” thick
Tools
You will need:
·Small (modeller’s) vice
·Steel ruler, marked in inches
·Pencil
·General-purpose saw
·Hacksaw blades (3)
·Modeller’s fine-toothed blade saw
·Sharp craft knife (Exacto, or similar)
·Medium file
·Sandpaper - various grades: 80-, 120-, 320-, 600-grit
·A piece of leather to protect the shaft when gripped in the vice
·Steel wool for finishing
·Varnish or boiled linseed oil for finishing
·Two-part epoxy adhesive
·Fletching glue, of your choice.
·0.010” plasticard sheet
·Good quality, large dressmaking scissors
·Fletching jig
·Fine (2-ply) linen or silk thread for whipping
·PVA glue
·Small paintbrush
Figure 3 - What you will need
Shaping the shaft
I’m starting with a pre-made shaft: ½” poplar, supplied by Steve Stratton at DIYArchery. The shaft must be a minimum of {arrow length} + 1.25”. In this case, the shaft is 33” long. If you wish, you can start with an 1” x 1” block and plane out the arrow shaft. This is rather long winded but quite achievable (although it helps to have a guide block). I’m just too lazy. I’ll let someone with a machine help me.
Marking out
This is one of the most important parts of making an arrow.
Start at one end. Mark 1”. This will be the bodkin shoulder. Next mark the arrow length + 1/4 inch (that quarter-inch is important, otherwise your arrow will be ¼ inch too short!) At this point you can cut the shaft to (total) length but I would recommend against it and only cut the shaft to length once the horn nock has been fitted.
Barrelling the shaft
Start by marking on the shaft where the bob-tailing is to start - see Figure 4. Next divide the tapering section into four parts. These will be your guide marks.
I’m starting with a pre-made shaft: ½” poplar, supplied by Steve Stratton at DIYArchery. The shaft must be a minimum of {arrow length} + 1.25”. In this case, the shaft is 33” long. If you wish, you can start with an 1” x 1” block and plane out the arrow shaft. This is rather long winded but quite achievable (although it helps to have a guide block). I’m just too lazy. I’ll let someone with a machine help me.
Marking out
This is one of the most important parts of making an arrow.
Start at one end. Mark 1”. This will be the bodkin shoulder. Next mark the arrow length + 1/4 inch (that quarter-inch is important, otherwise your arrow will be ¼ inch too short!) At this point you can cut the shaft to (total) length but I would recommend against it and only cut the shaft to length once the horn nock has been fitted.
Barrelling the shaft
Start by marking on the shaft where the bob-tailing is to start - see Figure 4. Next divide the tapering section into four parts. These will be your guide marks.
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Figure 4 - Barrelling profile (exagerated)
Using the abrasive tool of your choice (a small plane, for example. I use 20-grit sandpaper, but then I’m a masochist!) start to reduce the thickness of the shaft. Start at what will be the thinnest end. I sand from the thick end towards the thin end. The aim is to create a linear taper from the widest point (1/2”) down to the nock (3/8”). Keep measuring and keep re-drawing the guide marks as you erase them. Also check the straightness of the shaft and the circularity. It’s very easy to over-reduce one side and get a distorted shaft. If the shaft does distort it can be straightened by holding it over a heat source then bending it back into shape.
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When you get to the dimensions (or very close) switch to 120-grit sandpaper, then 320-grit paper and finally 600-grit paper to give a smooth, polished finish.
To barrel the shaft (so the middle of the arrow is also its widest point) repeat the above exercise (but obviously at the other end of the shaft!)
To barrel the shaft (so the middle of the arrow is also its widest point) repeat the above exercise (but obviously at the other end of the shaft!)
Fitting the head
To fit the warhead we’re going to taper down the shaft from the shoulder to fit into the socket. Ideally, you want as much wood inside the socket as possible for strength. Some people use a pencil sharpener to produce the taper. I’m old-fashioned so I whittle down the shaft with a knife. In general, pencil sharpeners have a different taper to an arrow socket so it’s best not to rely on them. Carving the shaft is often necessary when heads don’t have a nice, uniform socket; you have to ‘fettle’ to get things to sit straight. Start by scoring around the shoulder mark you made with a sharp knife (Figure 6). Next, cut back from the head to the shoulder (Figure 7) to leave a well-defined shoulder for the socket.
To fit the warhead we’re going to taper down the shaft from the shoulder to fit into the socket. Ideally, you want as much wood inside the socket as possible for strength. Some people use a pencil sharpener to produce the taper. I’m old-fashioned so I whittle down the shaft with a knife. In general, pencil sharpeners have a different taper to an arrow socket so it’s best not to rely on them. Carving the shaft is often necessary when heads don’t have a nice, uniform socket; you have to ‘fettle’ to get things to sit straight. Start by scoring around the shoulder mark you made with a sharp knife (Figure 6). Next, cut back from the head to the shoulder (Figure 7) to leave a well-defined shoulder for the socket.
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Figure 5 - Barrelling the shaft
Figure 6 - Scoring the shoulder
Now, cut away the shaft to a taper. It is useful to test-fit the socket several times during this process. One useful benefit is twisting on the socket leaves black or rusty stains on the shaft where it rubs (Figure 8). You can use these as a guide to removing wood from the shaft. The socket should be a tight fit to the shaft, butted against the shoulder (as much as possible) with as much shaft inside the socket as possible
You may glue the warhead to the shaft at this point. However, for a broadhead you probably want the head parallel, or at 90 degrees to the string. This is tricky at this point if you haven’t already cut the nock.
When gluing the head I suggest a quick-curing two-part epoxy such as 5min Araldite. Others have success with hot-melt glues. In general, I would not favour cyanoacrylates (super glue), impact adhesives or fletching adhesives for fixing arrowheads.
You may glue the warhead to the shaft at this point. However, for a broadhead you probably want the head parallel, or at 90 degrees to the string. This is tricky at this point if you haven’t already cut the nock.
When gluing the head I suggest a quick-curing two-part epoxy such as 5min Araldite. Others have success with hot-melt glues. In general, I would not favour cyanoacrylates (super glue), impact adhesives or fletching adhesives for fixing arrowheads.
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Figure 7 - Forming the shoulder
Double click to edit
Figure 8 - Test fitting the bodkin
Figure 9 - The fitted bodkin
The nock
Marking out
Again, marking the arrow accurately is the key to making quality arrows. The time spent here will pay back manifold in the end result.
On your shaft you should have marked the {arrow length} + ¼ inch. I’ll call this mark the ‘Nock End’. All your measurements will be made from this point.
Measure 2” from the Nock End. This is the length of your horn insert.
Looking end-on to the shaft (at the Nock End) identify the grain of the wood. The grain should run across the end of the shaft pretty-much parallel
Marking out
Again, marking the arrow accurately is the key to making quality arrows. The time spent here will pay back manifold in the end result.
On your shaft you should have marked the {arrow length} + ¼ inch. I’ll call this mark the ‘Nock End’. All your measurements will be made from this point.
Measure 2” from the Nock End. This is the length of your horn insert.
Looking end-on to the shaft (at the Nock End) identify the grain of the wood. The grain should run across the end of the shaft pretty-much parallel
Sometimes this is awkward because of how the shaft is cut and the saw marks obscure the grain. Use the grain patterns on the side of the shaft to guess where the grain runs. Mark a line across the diameter of the shaft running parallel with the grain. It is important that the horn insert runs with the grain to avoid splitting the wood; and also the nock is perpendicular to the horn and you don’t want the nock running with the grain. Draw a line, along the length of the shaft, from one end of the diametric line to the length of the horn insert. Repeat on the opposite side of the arrow.
From the Nock End mark ¼ inch. This is the depth of the nock. This may seem rather shallow to modern archers but replicates what was found on the Mary Rose arrows. For a heavy bow a shallow nock is preferable: the deeper the nock the less relatively strong each side of the nock is (it’s all to do with Euler loads and levers and stuff). If your loose isn’t perfect you can put a lot of sideways load into the nock. A (relatively) tall thin nock ‘arm’ is more liable to snap than a thick, short nock arm. If you must have a deeper nock make sure it is no more than 3/8” deep.
From the Nock End mark ¼ inch. This is the depth of the nock. This may seem rather shallow to modern archers but replicates what was found on the Mary Rose arrows. For a heavy bow a shallow nock is preferable: the deeper the nock the less relatively strong each side of the nock is (it’s all to do with Euler loads and levers and stuff). If your loose isn’t perfect you can put a lot of sideways load into the nock. A (relatively) tall thin nock ‘arm’ is more liable to snap than a thick, short nock arm. If you must have a deeper nock make sure it is no more than 3/8” deep.
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Figure 10 - Nock dimensions
At right-angles to the horn insert, mark another diameter on the end of the shaft. This is where the nock will be cut. This line should be perpendicular to the grain of the wood. On the shaft sides mark a line from the nock line down to the depth of the nock.
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Figure 11 - Cutting the slot for the horn sliver
Fitting the horn insert
The horn insert should be a minimum of 1\2” wide and 2” long. You want some overlap; this can be cut and filed away later. Ideally the sliver of horn should be 1/16” thick (avoid horn slivers much thicker than this) and slightly tapering (but don’t get hung up on this; constant thickness horn slivers are just fine). The grain of the horn should run perpendicular to the length of the shaft.
Cut down the length of the shaft using a saw. I use a standard hacksaw for this job as it leaves a cut almost exactly 1/16” wide There are jigs to help with this task (again, see www.diyarchery.com). Use sandpaper to finish the saw cut. Test fit the horn sliver to the slot. Remember, don’t force it - you’ll split the arrow. See Figure 12. If, like me, you’re not the world’s most skilful saw-user it’s useful to have a bit of extra length to the shaft to allow your cutting style to ‘settle down’. This is one good reason for cutting the arrow to length after you’ve fitted the horn sliver!
Glue the horn sliver in place. Again, I use a two-part epoxy for this job. Try to minimise gaps and voids with the adhesive as this will weaken the nock and could cause it to split.
Once the glue has dried remove the excess horn. I use a modeller’s fine-toothed blade saw to remove large amounts of excess horn, then use a file and sandpaper to finish. Horn cuts very nicely with a fine-toothed saw but something like a hacksaw can be too coarse and will snag and splinter the horn.
At this point, cut the arrow to its final (total) length. The result should look like Figure 14.
The horn insert should be a minimum of 1\2” wide and 2” long. You want some overlap; this can be cut and filed away later. Ideally the sliver of horn should be 1/16” thick (avoid horn slivers much thicker than this) and slightly tapering (but don’t get hung up on this; constant thickness horn slivers are just fine). The grain of the horn should run perpendicular to the length of the shaft.
Cut down the length of the shaft using a saw. I use a standard hacksaw for this job as it leaves a cut almost exactly 1/16” wide There are jigs to help with this task (again, see www.diyarchery.com). Use sandpaper to finish the saw cut. Test fit the horn sliver to the slot. Remember, don’t force it - you’ll split the arrow. See Figure 12. If, like me, you’re not the world’s most skilful saw-user it’s useful to have a bit of extra length to the shaft to allow your cutting style to ‘settle down’. This is one good reason for cutting the arrow to length after you’ve fitted the horn sliver!
Glue the horn sliver in place. Again, I use a two-part epoxy for this job. Try to minimise gaps and voids with the adhesive as this will weaken the nock and could cause it to split.
Once the glue has dried remove the excess horn. I use a modeller’s fine-toothed blade saw to remove large amounts of excess horn, then use a file and sandpaper to finish. Horn cuts very nicely with a fine-toothed saw but something like a hacksaw can be too coarse and will snag and splinter the horn.
At this point, cut the arrow to its final (total) length. The result should look like Figure 14.
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Figure 12 - Fitting the horn sliver
Figure 13 - Cutting the shaft to length
Figure 14 - The filed horn
Cutting the nock
With your blade saw cut a guide slot in the end of the shaft. While you’re shaping the nock you’ll likely erase your pencil marks so this gives you a visual clue where the nock will be. Make sure this is at 90 degrees to the wood grain (and the horn sliver).
Using a file and sandpaper, round off the end of the shaft. It should now look like Figure 16.
Now cut the nock, using the guide slot. For this I use three hacksaw blades simply taped together, then finished with a round precision file (which just happens to be 1/8” wide). Use the round file to round-out the bottom of the nock. This avoids stress-raisers in the nock and is kinder to your string. The finished nock should be 1/8” wide and ¼” deep. See Figure 10.
Finishing the shaft
You should now have a nocked shaft with an arrowhead on the other end. If not, you’ve probably missed a very important step and you should review this article again. Now it’s time to finish the shaft - by which I mean: apply a protective coating.
Prepare the shaft by making sure it is completely smooth. Use progressively finer grades of sandpaper to sand the shaft then finish with 000 grade wire wool. This should leave your arrow satin-smooth.
I use boiled linseed oil to protect my arrows from the elements. Boiled linseed gives a rich satin finish to the wood. It can also be waxed with a good beeswax to give extra shine and water-proofing. Avoid unboiled linseed oil as this takes an age to dry and doesn’t give any particular advantage. Drying times for boiled linseed can be improved (if you’re impatient) by mixing with a little turpentine. Danish oil (another variation on linseed oil) is also a good choice.
By preference I avoid varnished finishes - for one thing it’s not accurate and, secondly, I find it messy and it takes a long time to dry. If you must use a varnish finish then select a matt acrylic varnish. Apply the first coat watered down with 50% water, then rub-down with wire wool and repeat with ‘neat’ varnish. Arrows can be varnished by ‘dipping’ them into a sealed-bottom tube at least the length of the arrow, filled with varnish. The arrows are then left to ‘drip-dry’
With your blade saw cut a guide slot in the end of the shaft. While you’re shaping the nock you’ll likely erase your pencil marks so this gives you a visual clue where the nock will be. Make sure this is at 90 degrees to the wood grain (and the horn sliver).
Using a file and sandpaper, round off the end of the shaft. It should now look like Figure 16.
Now cut the nock, using the guide slot. For this I use three hacksaw blades simply taped together, then finished with a round precision file (which just happens to be 1/8” wide). Use the round file to round-out the bottom of the nock. This avoids stress-raisers in the nock and is kinder to your string. The finished nock should be 1/8” wide and ¼” deep. See Figure 10.
Finishing the shaft
You should now have a nocked shaft with an arrowhead on the other end. If not, you’ve probably missed a very important step and you should review this article again. Now it’s time to finish the shaft - by which I mean: apply a protective coating.
Prepare the shaft by making sure it is completely smooth. Use progressively finer grades of sandpaper to sand the shaft then finish with 000 grade wire wool. This should leave your arrow satin-smooth.
I use boiled linseed oil to protect my arrows from the elements. Boiled linseed gives a rich satin finish to the wood. It can also be waxed with a good beeswax to give extra shine and water-proofing. Avoid unboiled linseed oil as this takes an age to dry and doesn’t give any particular advantage. Drying times for boiled linseed can be improved (if you’re impatient) by mixing with a little turpentine. Danish oil (another variation on linseed oil) is also a good choice.
By preference I avoid varnished finishes - for one thing it’s not accurate and, secondly, I find it messy and it takes a long time to dry. If you must use a varnish finish then select a matt acrylic varnish. Apply the first coat watered down with 50% water, then rub-down with wire wool and repeat with ‘neat’ varnish. Arrows can be varnished by ‘dipping’ them into a sealed-bottom tube at least the length of the arrow, filled with varnish. The arrows are then left to ‘drip-dry’
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Figure 15 - Cutting a pilot nock
Figure 16 - The rounded-off shaft
Figure 17 - Finishing the nock
Figure 18 - The finished nock
Fletching
Cutting a template
For this arrow I’m going to use a right-angled, straight-cut triangular fletch (see Figure 19). I could have left the trailing edge to follow the natural line of the feather barbs; this style is typical of livery arrows. Some prefer one type of fletch; others prefer the other type.
Cutting a template
For this arrow I’m going to use a right-angled, straight-cut triangular fletch (see Figure 19). I could have left the trailing edge to follow the natural line of the feather barbs; this style is typical of livery arrows. Some prefer one type of fletch; others prefer the other type.
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Figure 19 - Fletch dimensions
Take a sheet of 0.010” (0.5mm) plasticard (available from good model shops, generally in A4 sheets). Mark out the design of your fletching (). Mark out the length of the fletch on the base of the template with a notch. Mark a second notch, about 1/8” longer than the fletch on the base line. This is the point you actually cut the feather to. You want to leave a section of quill at the back of the fletch to give you something to whip round at the rear of the arrow. If you’re using the livery-style fletch, be aware that you don’t measure the height of the fletch at the point directly perpendicular to the length-notch. Since the splines on the feather sweep back, the actual height is measured a little further back. The distance is dependent on the angle your feather splines sweep back. If you’ve gone for really big fletches (say, about 1” high) the difference between the height at the length-notch and the actual tip of the feather can be as much as ¼”. That can add a lot of drag to your arrow. Finally, at the ‘leading-tip’ don’t taper the template to a fine point (leave it blunt by about 1/8”). This will make it easier to cut the feather. Cut the template out with a sharp knife.
Cutting the feathers (to length)
I would recommend only cutting the feathers to length before gluing them to the shaft. It is tricky to cut them to final shape if they are loose. It is far simpler to cut their final shape once they are fixed along one edge!
Place the template on the feather. Using a thin plasticard allows the template to follow the natural curve of the feather. Mark the {fletch length} and {length + 1/8”} on the quill. Cut the feather to length with a sharp knife. Remember to cut the feather at the outer mark, not to {fletch length}.
Now cut away the barbs at the back of the feather. At the quill, cut the barbs from back of the feather to the length mark. You’ve now cut the feather to length and left some quill for whipping.
Marking the shaft
Once more, we’re marking up our shaft (remember, it’s a sign of professionalism!). It’s worth noting that the fletches on a medieval arrow are further forward than on a modern longbow arrow. This is because the bigger fletches will interfere with the string if they’re too far back. On a modern arrow the fletches are sited about 1” from the nock. On our arrow this will be increased to 2” (See Figure 2).
I would recommend only cutting the feathers to length before gluing them to the shaft. It is tricky to cut them to final shape if they are loose. It is far simpler to cut their final shape once they are fixed along one edge!
Place the template on the feather. Using a thin plasticard allows the template to follow the natural curve of the feather. Mark the {fletch length} and {length + 1/8”} on the quill. Cut the feather to length with a sharp knife. Remember to cut the feather at the outer mark, not to {fletch length}.
Now cut away the barbs at the back of the feather. At the quill, cut the barbs from back of the feather to the length mark. You’ve now cut the feather to length and left some quill for whipping.
Marking the shaft
Once more, we’re marking up our shaft (remember, it’s a sign of professionalism!). It’s worth noting that the fletches on a medieval arrow are further forward than on a modern longbow arrow. This is because the bigger fletches will interfere with the string if they’re too far back. On a modern arrow the fletches are sited about 1” from the nock. On our arrow this will be increased to 2” (See Figure 2).
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Figure 20 - Cutting the feathers to length
Figure 21 - Fletches ready for fixing
This time you want to mark the leading tip of the fletch. When you fix the fletches you want them all aligned on the shaft, not staggered. In the past I’ve tried to align the fletches at the back-end of the arrow and assume they’re all the same length. Minute variances in fletching length (however careful you are) can cause annoying misalignments at the front of the fletches. To me, having the unevenness at the back end of the arrow seems to hide it better.
Mark the shaft 2” + {total length of fletches}. Remember, in this case that includes the extra bit you included for whipping. So, for a 7” fletch, mark the shaft 9 1/8” from the nock.
A note on fletching adhesives
It is not widely recorded what adhesives medieval fletchers used to fix their feathers. There are a number of natural adhesives available including fish glues, rice glues, boiled beech sap and even bluebell sap! Whilst I heartily commend anyone using these traditional glues I would suggest that, for making reproduction arrows for general use, modern adhesives are used.
It appears I’m somewhat unusual in that I recommend cyanoacrylate (super glue, also known as CA) for attaching fletches. Most fletchers use a HMG fletching adhesive available from most archery suppliers. I’ve found that CA is at least as strong as other glues and a damn sight quicker! It does have a downside though: if the fletch fails to bond (that is, after you’ve glued it, the feather comes loose again) you have to discard the feather; it just won’t re-stick. If you chose to use CA, I’d also recommend using a CA ‘Accelerator’ (for example Zip-Fixer - see zap.supergluecorp.com). This is an aerosol-based product that instantly cures CA. It can also be used to ‘pre-treat’ a surface - as soon as the CA comes in contact with the accelerator-coated surface it cures. I spray the shaft with accelerator (it doesn’t react with varnish or linseed oil) and apply the CA to the quill of the feather. If I want a really tough bond I trickle a thin line of traditional fletching adhesive along the join after I’ve fixed the fletch.
Fixing the fletches
Unless you’re practiced (or mentally unstable) you’ll use a fletching jig to do this. Most fletching jigs can only cope with fletches up to about 5.5”. For fixing medieval-style fletches (which generally start at about 6” and go up!) you’ll need a specialist fletching jig. I use The Big Jig by Richard Head (www.english-longbow.co.uk) which will handle up to 10” feathers.
Mark the shaft 2” + {total length of fletches}. Remember, in this case that includes the extra bit you included for whipping. So, for a 7” fletch, mark the shaft 9 1/8” from the nock.
A note on fletching adhesives
It is not widely recorded what adhesives medieval fletchers used to fix their feathers. There are a number of natural adhesives available including fish glues, rice glues, boiled beech sap and even bluebell sap! Whilst I heartily commend anyone using these traditional glues I would suggest that, for making reproduction arrows for general use, modern adhesives are used.
It appears I’m somewhat unusual in that I recommend cyanoacrylate (super glue, also known as CA) for attaching fletches. Most fletchers use a HMG fletching adhesive available from most archery suppliers. I’ve found that CA is at least as strong as other glues and a damn sight quicker! It does have a downside though: if the fletch fails to bond (that is, after you’ve glued it, the feather comes loose again) you have to discard the feather; it just won’t re-stick. If you chose to use CA, I’d also recommend using a CA ‘Accelerator’ (for example Zip-Fixer - see zap.supergluecorp.com). This is an aerosol-based product that instantly cures CA. It can also be used to ‘pre-treat’ a surface - as soon as the CA comes in contact with the accelerator-coated surface it cures. I spray the shaft with accelerator (it doesn’t react with varnish or linseed oil) and apply the CA to the quill of the feather. If I want a really tough bond I trickle a thin line of traditional fletching adhesive along the join after I’ve fixed the fletch.
Fixing the fletches
Unless you’re practiced (or mentally unstable) you’ll use a fletching jig to do this. Most fletching jigs can only cope with fletches up to about 5.5”. For fixing medieval-style fletches (which generally start at about 6” and go up!) you’ll need a specialist fletching jig. I use The Big Jig by Richard Head (www.english-longbow.co.uk) which will handle up to 10” feathers.
First task is to calibrate your jig. Place your arrow in the jig. Put the arrow-clamp in and mark it where the leading tip of the fletch should be. I just use a simple arrow drawn on in pencil. If there’s a lot of movement in the arrow clamp you may wish to create a simple jig so that you have some fixed datum point you can get to each time.
Take your first fletch (generally the cock feather) and put it in the clamp. Make sure you align the tip with the mark on the clamp (oh, and make sure it’s the right way round! I’ve done that before…) Glue the feather to the shaft (which means going off and having a cup of tea if you’re using a traditional adhesive or carrying straight on if you’re using CA!) Repeat for the other fletches.
Take your first fletch (generally the cock feather) and put it in the clamp. Make sure you align the tip with the mark on the clamp (oh, and make sure it’s the right way round! I’ve done that before…) Glue the feather to the shaft (which means going off and having a cup of tea if you’re using a traditional adhesive or carrying straight on if you’re using CA!) Repeat for the other fletches.
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Figure 22 - The fletched shaft
Whipping
Medieval arrows were whipped to keep the fletches attached. With modern adhesives this is no longer necessary but for appearance I like to whip my fletches to the shaftment. I recommend fine linen for whipping. I find silk too thin. It becomes very difficult to get neat windings with silk. And it takes forever! If your thread is too thick, two things will happen: the barbs of the feather will separate (which looks ugly and clumsy); and your arrow will have excess drag - it’ll make a lovely ‘hisssss’ as it flies, but it won’t go as far. In most illustrations the whipping is either natural-coloured or red. I choose red.
Medieval arrows were whipped to keep the fletches attached. With modern adhesives this is no longer necessary but for appearance I like to whip my fletches to the shaftment. I recommend fine linen for whipping. I find silk too thin. It becomes very difficult to get neat windings with silk. And it takes forever! If your thread is too thick, two things will happen: the barbs of the feather will separate (which looks ugly and clumsy); and your arrow will have excess drag - it’ll make a lovely ‘hisssss’ as it flies, but it won’t go as far. In most illustrations the whipping is either natural-coloured or red. I choose red.
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Figure 23 - Starting the whipping
Before whipping remove the step at the leading edge of the fletches. If this is left there is a chance of grazing (or cutting!) your hand as you loose. Press the tip of the fletch into the shaftment with the shaft of a screwdriver, or similar (I use my Exacto knife since I’ve got it to hand when I’m whipping arrows)
Start whipping about ¼” in front of the fletches. There are a number of variations for fixing the thread: tying-off; cutting a small notch in the shaft and using that to grip the thread (See Figure 23) ; or my trusty favourite, cynoacrylate. Wrap the thread around the shaft making sure to keep the threads butted up against each other and not over-lapping. Continue up to the leading edges of the fletches, and then over by about 1/8”. Then start winding the thread helically between the feathers. Try to keep the spacing close and even - four to six turns per inch is traditional. I use an awl, thick needle or the back of my Exacto knife to separate the barbs (Figure 24). This is somewhat easier and more accurate than trying to slip the thread between the barbs. Once you reach the back of the fletch (where you left a bare area of quill) repeat the close-whipping the same as the front of the fletching. Fix the thread in the same way you did at the front.
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Figure 24 - Whipping the shaft
As an option you can whip round the nock area, to strengthen it. With a small nock, as described here, this is usually not necessary.
Finally, to protect the whipping, and to prevent it moving and coming loose, coat the shaftment area with PVA (craft) adhesive. Medieval fletchers would have used this same technique, just with a different (copper-based) glue. Apply a generous coating of PVA to the shaftment. This glue dries clear so you don’t have to be over-precious. Wipe off any excess (for example from the feathers) with a damp cloth.
Finally, to protect the whipping, and to prevent it moving and coming loose, coat the shaftment area with PVA (craft) adhesive. Medieval fletchers would have used this same technique, just with a different (copper-based) glue. Apply a generous coating of PVA to the shaftment. This glue dries clear so you don’t have to be over-precious. Wipe off any excess (for example from the feathers) with a damp cloth.
Cutting the feathers (to shape)
This is not a step I would recommend trying if you’re tired, stressed or of a nervous disposition. It requires confidence, commitment and a steady hand. In fact, I consider this a one-shot, right-first-time exercise - trying to fettle the results afterwards just seems to make things worse!
Clamp the arrow horizontally with one of the fletches parallel to the floor. Lay the cutting template on the fletch (I tape the template to the shaftment to hold it while I cut; one less thing to worry about). Using good quality, long dressmaking scissors cut from the back of the fletch towards the front, using the template as a guide - see Figure 25. I’d recommend making long, steady cuts, rather than trying to ‘nibble’ your way down the feather. Turn the arrow and repeat.
Once you’ve cut the basic shape you will have a livery style arrow. If you wish you can trim off the trailing edge to form a right-angled fletch.
Production notes
In general I don’t make a single arrow at a time. I usually make them in batches of six or twelve. I use mass-production philosophy: so I mark up all the shafts, cut them all, fit the arrowheads, nock them all, and so on. This is just common sense (although I have no evidence to say whether it is actually more effective than making each arrow individually!)
Even with so-called ‘5 minute’ epoxies I still find they have to be left at least overnight to cure fully.
This is not a step I would recommend trying if you’re tired, stressed or of a nervous disposition. It requires confidence, commitment and a steady hand. In fact, I consider this a one-shot, right-first-time exercise - trying to fettle the results afterwards just seems to make things worse!
Clamp the arrow horizontally with one of the fletches parallel to the floor. Lay the cutting template on the fletch (I tape the template to the shaftment to hold it while I cut; one less thing to worry about). Using good quality, long dressmaking scissors cut from the back of the fletch towards the front, using the template as a guide - see Figure 25. I’d recommend making long, steady cuts, rather than trying to ‘nibble’ your way down the feather. Turn the arrow and repeat.
Once you’ve cut the basic shape you will have a livery style arrow. If you wish you can trim off the trailing edge to form a right-angled fletch.
Production notes
In general I don’t make a single arrow at a time. I usually make them in batches of six or twelve. I use mass-production philosophy: so I mark up all the shafts, cut them all, fit the arrowheads, nock them all, and so on. This is just common sense (although I have no evidence to say whether it is actually more effective than making each arrow individually!)
Even with so-called ‘5 minute’ epoxies I still find they have to be left at least overnight to cure fully.
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Figure 25 - Cutting the feathers to shape
Figure 26 - Livery-style and right-angled cut fletches
Each arrow costs in the order of £10. Much of that cost is dependent on the arrowhead used - a mass-produced medieval-style bodkin may costs as little as 80p; a hand-forged swallowtail broadhead may cost £25! My cost estimate is based on using a hand-forged Type10 bodkin at approximately £5 - £7.
I would estimate each arrow takes about 2 hours to complete (not including drying and curing time). I have no doubt that could be reduced by using machine tools and setting up large production runs. However, that is not the aim of this exercise. The techniques shown here are ‘kitchen table’ methods, to allow an archer to make their own arrows without specialist manufacturing facilities.
I would estimate each arrow takes about 2 hours to complete (not including drying and curing time). I have no doubt that could be reduced by using machine tools and setting up large production runs. However, that is not the aim of this exercise. The techniques shown here are ‘kitchen table’ methods, to allow an archer to make their own arrows without specialist manufacturing facilities.
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